Wii GH5

Introduction

This is an instructional guide for the RetroCultMods Revival Kit for the Wii GH5 Guitar Hero Controller. This build can be completed in under an hour and a half, but can take longer if you are thorough with the cleaning process. If you run into any issues during the build or have questions, click here!

Parts Included

• Revival Kit Zeroboard (Strumboard/PCB)
• Revival Kit Fretboard
• Replacement Thumbstick Board for Wii GH5
• Replacement Start/Select board for Wii GH5
• USB-C Port Assembly for GH5
• 3D Printed Translucent Strumbar for GH5
• 3D Printed Strum Pegs for GH5
• 5x 3D Printed Translucent Frets
• 3D Printed Kit Hardware
• New Whammy Assembly
• Switch Puller
• Color Coded Wires and Auth Cable
• 10 foot nylon braided USB-A to USB-C cable
• Tube of lubricant

Images of all parts

Revival Kit Zeroboard

Required Tools (not included)

• Screwdriver with PH1, PH2, T10, and T6(sometimes) bits
• Flush Cutters (optional)

Step-by-Step Installation Guide

1. Opening the Guitar

Flip the controller over so the Red Octane sticker on the back of the body is visible.

1. Flip the controller over so the Red Octane sticker on the back of the body is visible. Move the faceplate latch to the unlocked position on the back of the guitar body, then remove the faceplate by pulling upwards from the neck slot.

   
2. 

   Body Screws

   Front Body Shell - 11x T10 Screws

   Front Body Shell (Neck) - 4x PH0 Screws

   

   Neck Screws

   Rear neck shell – 11x T10 screws

   Ensure that all screws are removed, and open the shell.

   Once the shell begins to open, slowly move down the rest of the shell until it pops open completely. Repeat this process for the neck, using the opening at the neck connector and working towards the headstock.

   If the shell seems to gets stuck, DO NOT FORCE IT. Check to make sure you have removed all of the screws before continuing to pry the shell.

2. Removal of Original Parts

Now its time to remove the stock boards that will be replaced with the new boards included in the kit.

Internal Body Screws

Remove the 16-18x PH1/T6 screws on the stock boards:

• Strumboard
• Start/Select bracket
• D-Pad Board
• Motherboard
• RJ-11 Board
• Battery Compartment
• Headset Port Board (Xbox models only)

Internal Neck Screws

Remove the 1x PH1/T6 screw from the stock Fretboard.

Once all the screws are removed, remove all of the stock boards along with the whammy assembly from the shell.

You will need to keep the following parts of the whammy assembly:

3. (Optional) Clean Your Guitar

In this step, I took a little bit of time to clean some parts of the guitar. I suggest being more thorough in your build, as your guitar may have finger grime from way back in the day!

A bit of rubbing alcohol and/or soap and water can go a long way. Make sure the parts are fully dry if you clean with soap and water.

Pro tip: Toothbrush, Dawn soap, and water.

4. Test Your Revival Kit

Before installing the Revival Zeroboard/Strumboard and Revival Fretboard, they should be tested for proper functionality.

1. Plug the Revival Fretboard into the Revival Zeroboard/Strumboard using the three included white cables. Make sure that each connection goes to the proper port. It is suggested to go one by one while installing.

   

   
2. Plug your Revival Zeroboard/Strumboard into your computer, using the USB-C to USB-A cable included in the Revival Kit. You will plug it into the vertical USB-C port on the Zeroboard.

   
3. Open the RCM Programming Tool (click here to go to the download page). If the following screen appears for you, make sure to switch the DEVICE TYPE to “Revival Kit”. Click Erase and Configure. Do not touch the device while it is being programmed.

   
4. Once the firmware writing is complete, this screen will appear:

   
5. Scroll down to the list of all inputs and then start pressing the fret and strum switches. The respective switches will light up and so will the input in the RCM Programming Tool. Verify that all of the inputs and switches work properly. If not, contact support.

   

5. Prepping the New Strumbar (RGB Only)

IF YOU DID NOT ORDER THE 3D PRINTED CLEAR STRUM BAR, SKIP THIS STEP.

1. Remove the PH1 screws from the strum brackets, then remove the strum brackets, strumbar, and springs from the shell (if there are any).

   
2. Insert the included strum pegs into the new strumbar.

   
3. Find the white bottle of lubricant and apply a very small amount to your finger or a qtip. Then apply a light coating of the lubricant to the surface of the black strum peg; both the cylindrical part and the flat part that is flush with the strumbar.

   
4. Slot the stock strum brackets onto the strum pegs of the new strumbar on both sides.

   
5. Slide the new strumbar and strum brackets back onto the plastic standoffs they originally sat on. Use the original screws to secure the strum brackets, but do not overtighten them. The new strumbar should be able to rotate freely; if there is any friction, slightly loosen each strum bracket screw.

   Do not install the new strumboard just yet, we need to install some spacers in the next section first.

   

6. Installing the Revival Zeroboard (strumboard)

1. Depending on your model, you will need to install one set of spacers, or both.

   Gather the keycap spacers (left) and strumboard spacers (right).

   
2. Flip the strumboard over so you can see the Navy strum switches.

   We will be inserting the keycap spacers into the blue colored stems of the switches.

   
3. Push the keycap spacers fully into the stems of the strum switches.

   
4. (Playstation models only): Separate the strumboard spacers and put one on each of the four strumboard supports that the new Strumboard will sit on.

   
5. Place the new strumboard on top of the strumboard supports, then screw in the new strumboard. If the stock screws are stripped, you can use the replacement Long Screws provided in the kit. Make sure each screw is snug, but do not over-tighten them, or you may scratch away the soldermask of the new strumboard!

   

7. Installing the Revival Fretboard

1. Gather the Revival Kit Fretboard, Translucent Frets, 3 White Wires, and 1 Long Screw.

2. Connect one end of each of the White Wires into the RGB, FRET1, and FRET2 connectors on the Fretboard. Connect the other end of each White Wire to the corresponding RGB, FRET1, and FRET2 connectors on the Strumboard. I recommend doing one wire at a time to prevent mixing them up.

3. Remove the stock silicone pad and frets if they are still in the fret slots. Wipe the inside of the fret slots clean if they are dirty. Then apply a small amount of lubricant to your finger or a qtip and lightly coat the inside of the fret slots with lubricant. Make sure to wipe away any excess lubricant that my have spilled to the front of the neck shell!

   
4. Insert the translucent 3D printed frets provided in the kit. These frets must be used even if you do not want to use LEDs; the stock frets will not fit with the new Fretboard.

   
5. Place the new Fretboard onto the screw standoff that the stock fretboard used to sit on (the red switches and white connectors should be facing down towards the Translucent Frets. Use 1 Long Screw to secure the new Fretboard.

   
6. Route the White Wires through the neck and down through the body. Make sure they are clear of any screw standoffs so they are not damaged when reinstalling the neck shell. Using a bit of tape to hold down the wires internally can help with management.

8. Installing the Start/Select Board

1. Gather the XB/PS GH5 Start/Select Board (labelled 1D) and 2 Long Screws. Stock screws can also be used if they are not stripped

2. Make sure the rubber dome pads and springs are still in place, then install the Start/Select Board where the stock board used to sit. Use the stock screws or included Long Screws to secure it.

   
3. Connect the red wire to the white connector on the Start/Select Board.

   
4. Connect the other end of the red wire into the ST/SEL connector on the Zeroboard. Double check the label on each board and make sure the wire is connected to the correct port.

   

9. Installing the D-Pad Input Board

1. Gather the new Dpad board (labelled 2B), the small Joystick shim, and 2 Long Screws.

2. Place the new Dpad board on the rubber pad that the stock board used to sit on.

   
3. Use the new Long Screws or the original screws to secure the new board into place.

   
4. Plug one end of two Red Wires into the DPAD1 and DPAD2 connectors on the new Dpad board.

   
5. Plug the other end of each Red Wire into their corresponding DPAD1 and DPAD2 connectors on the new Strumboard.

   

10. Installing the USB-C Port Assembly

1. Gather the USB-C board, bracket, and shroud. Gather 2 Short Screws and 2 Long Screws. For Xbox models, use the bracket with the X on it. For Playstations models, use the other bracket.

   
2. Pre-install two short screws into the bracket from the bottom until they start to poke out of the other side.

   
3. Line up the USB-C board into the top of the bracket, ensuring the screws go through the holes in the board. Push the shroud on top of the USB-C connector on the board.

   
4. Finish screwing in the short screws from the bottom of the bracket. You will want to press the shroud down onto the connector while you finish installing the screws.

   
5. Use two long screws to mount the assembled USB-C module where the RJ-11 port used to sit.

   

   
6. Plug one end of the Yellow Cable into the white connector of the USB-C module.

   
7. Plug the other end of the Yellow Cable into the white connector on the Strumboard labelled USB.

   

11. Installing the Authentication Cable (optional)

This step is only necessary if you plan on playing Rock Band 4 on Xbox One/Series with this guitar.

1. Gather the Authentication cable.

   
2. Plug the white connector end of the Authentication cable into the white connector on the Strumboard labelled AUTH.

   
3. Route the Authentication cable through the slot for the battery compartment.

   
4. When not in use, the cable can be tucked between the two circular standoffs in the battery compartment.

   

12. Assembling the Whammy

pain

13. Test Inputs

1. Plug your guitar into your computer using the new USB-C port you installed!

2. Open the RCM Programming Tool on your computer (click here to go to the download page) If the following screen appears for you, make sure to switch the DEVICE TYPE to “Revival Kit”. Click Erase and Configure. Do not touch the device while it is being programmed.

   
3. You will then be brought to this screen, click Configure.

   
4. Scroll down to the list of all inputs and then start pressing the frets and clicking the strum bar. The respective switches will light up and so will the input in the RCM Programming Tool. Verify that all of the inputs and switches work properly. If not, contact support.

   

14. Closing the Guitar

You’re almost done! Once you have ensured that each input works, we can close up the guitar!

Make sure none of the wires are in the way of any plastic standoffs, as this will damage them when closing the shell. I would recommend taping down the wires to ensure they are out of the way and not draped across any of the boards.

With the front body and neck shell facing down, put the rear neck shell onto the front neck shell. You may need to apply pressure to close the shell. If you feel like part of the shell will not snap into place, open it up and double check that there is nothing blocking the standoffs. Repeat for the body shell.

DON’T FORGET THE STRAP PEGS!

After both sides of the body are connected, install all of the screws you removed earlier:

Body Screws

Front Body Shell - 11x T10 Screws

Front Body Shell (Neck) - 4x PH0 Screws

Neck Screws

Rear neck shell – 11x T10 screwsx

Getting the faceplate back on is difficult. No

15. Calibrate Tilt and Whammy

Tilt

1. Open the RCM Programming Tool

2. Plug the guitar into your computer

3. Click the Configure button

   
4. Click the Tilt dropdown menu

   

   
5. Click Calibrate

   
6. Posture the guitar in your normal playing position, then click Next. After that, posture the guitar in the height that you would like for tilt to activate and hold it in that position while clicking Next again. Your tilt should now be calibrated!

7. If you feel like the tilt needs to be adjusted, just calibrate again!

Whammy

1. Click the Whammy dropdown menu.

   
2. Click Calibrate.

   
3. Without touching the whammy bar, click Next. Then, push the whammy bar further in (like furthest activated) without pushing too hard to damage it. Hold it in that position, then click Next.

4. Now you’re setting the Deadzone. The Deadzone is where the whammy begins activation. So you want to make it to where the whammy cannot actuate unless you intentionally press it inwards. Once you’ve set that, click Next.

   
5. You’re done! If you find that the deadzone isn’t quite right, you can adjust it via the slider or by recalibrating.

16. Configure Fret and Strum Bar Colors

1. Open RCM Programming Tool if you do not already have it open. Click Configure

2. Scroll to the fret and strum inputs and click the arrow to reveal the color selectors for your chosen input.

   

   
3. Click on the arrow for the pressed or released LED color to open the color picker menu:

   
4. Change this to whatever color you want!

5. Click Save Settings when you’ve configured all of the colors that you want.

15. Finishing Up, Factory Resets and Updates

To wrap up this installation, the last things to know are how to factory reset and/or update the guitar.